Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim

The influence of novel triacylglycerols (TAGs) on the topical delivery of a-tocopherol and their role as emollients was investigated. For topical application, TAGs as enhancers were developed to improve the delivery of actives across the skin as the skin barrier limited their use. Medium chain triac...

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Main Author:	Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana
Format:	Thesis
Language:	English
Published:	2014
Online Access:	https://ir.uitm.edu.my/id/eprint/16320/1/ABS_SALIZATUL%20ILYANA%20IBRAHIM%20TDRA%20VOL%206%20IGS_14.pdf
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id	my-uitm-ir.16320
record_format	uketd_dc
spelling	my-uitm-ir.163202022-03-29T07:37:44Z Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim 2014-06 Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana The influence of novel triacylglycerols (TAGs) on the topical delivery of a-tocopherol and their role as emollients was investigated. For topical application, TAGs as enhancers were developed to improve the delivery of actives across the skin as the skin barrier limited their use. Medium chain triacylglycerols (MCTs) have previously been used as carriers and enhancers for fat soluble vitamins and other actives as they work efficiently in delivering the active through the skin by modifying properties of the stratum comeum (SC) barrier. However, little published data are available concerning the permeation and effects of MCTs following topical application. The first part of the study was aimed to: i) develop and validate an assay method for determining a-tocopherol in methanolic solution and rat skin extract; ii) develop and validate an assay method for determining fatty acids methyl esters using gas chromatography; and iii) validate the automated diffusion equipment for in vitro experiment. The second part of the study was to produce novel TAGs namely structured virgin coconut oil (SVCO), by lipase catalysed acidolysis of caprylic acid and the virgin coconut oil (VCO). The percentage of caprylic acid finally incorporated in the reaction products was optimized using the central composite design (CCD). It was suggested that the highest incorporation of caprylic acid (68.07%) would be achieved by: caprylic acid to VCO ratio of 1.70 (w/w); an enzyme load of 22.60%; at 63.4°C; a water content of 3.53%; and at 96 h. Using the predicted optimum conditions, pentaplicate experiments gave a good result (64.11 ± 1.14%) thatcoincided with the predicted value and the model was deemed to be adequate. The third part of the study looked at the effect of permeation enhancer formulations on the permeation of a-tocopherol, a model permeant, in vitro and in vivo. Both approaches revealed that SVCO was a significantly better permeation enhancer than VCO. This probably indicated that the shorter carbon chain SVCO might be a better permeation enhancer. The final part of the study investigated the emollient properties of the newly develop enhancers. These were determined using instrumental measurement and sensorial perspective by trained panels. Skin biophysical studies on various skin parameters such as moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) contents, skin firmness and elasticity and surface evaluation on the living skin (SELS) from topical application to human healthy volunteers showed statistically significantly improved effects by both SVCO creams and VCO creams compared to the skin before creams application. In conclusion, novel permeation enhancers were successfully developed by acidolysis of VCO and caprylic acid. The SVCO was found to exert better skin permeation enhancing effect on a-tocopherol than VCO. Both VCO and SVCO gave emolliency effect when applied topically. 2014-06 Thesis https://ir.uitm.edu.my/id/eprint/16320/ https://ir.uitm.edu.my/id/eprint/16320/1/ABS_SALIZATUL%20ILYANA%20IBRAHIM%20TDRA%20VOL%206%20IGS_14.pdf text en public phd doctoral Universiti Teknologi MARA Faculty of Pharmacy
institution	Universiti Teknologi MARA
collection	UiTM Institutional Repository
language	English
description	The influence of novel triacylglycerols (TAGs) on the topical delivery of a-tocopherol and their role as emollients was investigated. For topical application, TAGs as enhancers were developed to improve the delivery of actives across the skin as the skin barrier limited their use. Medium chain triacylglycerols (MCTs) have previously been used as carriers and enhancers for fat soluble vitamins and other actives as they work efficiently in delivering the active through the skin by modifying properties of the stratum comeum (SC) barrier. However, little published data are available concerning the permeation and effects of MCTs following topical application. The first part of the study was aimed to: i) develop and validate an assay method for determining a-tocopherol in methanolic solution and rat skin extract; ii) develop and validate an assay method for determining fatty acids methyl esters using gas chromatography; and iii) validate the automated diffusion equipment for in vitro experiment. The second part of the study was to produce novel TAGs namely structured virgin coconut oil (SVCO), by lipase catalysed acidolysis of caprylic acid and the virgin coconut oil (VCO). The percentage of caprylic acid finally incorporated in the reaction products was optimized using the central composite design (CCD). It was suggested that the highest incorporation of caprylic acid (68.07%) would be achieved by: caprylic acid to VCO ratio of 1.70 (w/w); an enzyme load of 22.60%; at 63.4°C; a water content of 3.53%; and at 96 h. Using the predicted optimum conditions, pentaplicate experiments gave a good result (64.11 ± 1.14%) thatcoincided with the predicted value and the model was deemed to be adequate. The third part of the study looked at the effect of permeation enhancer formulations on the permeation of a-tocopherol, a model permeant, in vitro and in vivo. Both approaches revealed that SVCO was a significantly better permeation enhancer than VCO. This probably indicated that the shorter carbon chain SVCO might be a better permeation enhancer. The final part of the study investigated the emollient properties of the newly develop enhancers. These were determined using instrumental measurement and sensorial perspective by trained panels. Skin biophysical studies on various skin parameters such as moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) contents, skin firmness and elasticity and surface evaluation on the living skin (SELS) from topical application to human healthy volunteers showed statistically significantly improved effects by both SVCO creams and VCO creams compared to the skin before creams application. In conclusion, novel permeation enhancers were successfully developed by acidolysis of VCO and caprylic acid. The SVCO was found to exert better skin permeation enhancing effect on a-tocopherol than VCO. Both VCO and SVCO gave emolliency effect when applied topically.
format	Thesis
qualification_name	Doctor of Philosophy (PhD.)
qualification_level	Doctorate
author	Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana
spellingShingle	Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
author_facet	Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana
author_sort	Ibrahim, Salizatul Ilyana
title	Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
title_short	Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
title_full	Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
title_fullStr	Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
title_full_unstemmed	Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim
title_sort	structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / salizatul ilyana ibrahim
granting_institution	Universiti Teknologi MARA
granting_department	Faculty of Pharmacy
publishDate	2014
url	https://ir.uitm.edu.my/id/eprint/16320/1/ABS_SALIZATUL%20ILYANA%20IBRAHIM%20TDRA%20VOL%206%20IGS_14.pdf
_version_	1783733503481872384

Structured lipids from virgin coconut oil as permeation enhancers and emollients in cosmetics / Salizatul Ilyana Ibrahim

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